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The Basic Binding of Books: A Tutorial
Page 4 of 8
Take a piece of folded scrap paper and lay it 1/8 of an inch away from the gap between the first and second signature. Pressing the scrap paper down, spread a thin layer of glue (I'm using an Acid Free/Photo Safe rubber cement because it dries quickly and won't wrinkle the paper) down near the gap. Remove the scrap paper, close the book and press down firmly for 10 seconds. Carefully flip the book and do the same to the last signature. Continue flipping the book and gluing the gaps between signatures until you reach the center of the book. When you've finished, put the pages in clamps and allow to set. This process forms a temporary bond to hold the signatures in place until the backs are glued.
It is time to glue the mull onto the backbone of the book. A press would be useful here to hold your book spine end up. Lay your mull across the backbone of the book and center it. There should be a two inch overlap on either side. Take a pencil and rub the side of the tip gently across the edges of the spine to make a mark on the mull. This will give us a guide to know where to spread the glue. I am using a PVA glue that stays flexible when dry. Coat the center of the mull with glue between where we have marked with pencil lines. Work the glue down into the weave of the fabric. (I like to use my fingers for all gluing. I've found I can work it in better, get a nice even spread, I can feel what I am doing better, and clean up is easier. Regardless of whether you use a brush or your fingers, keep a damp cloth and a dry cloth nearby for quick clean up.) Then spread glue across the backbone of the book, working it down in between the signatures and into the weave of the tapes. When this is done, center and press the mull down onto the spine.
There should be about 1/2 an inch at the top and bottom of the spine that is not covered by mull. Spread more glue across the top of the mull and work it into the weave. Keep the book in clamps or press for a couple of hours or overnight to dry.
In the meantime you can start preparing the cover boards and, in my case, make many last minute changes as to what materials you plan to use.
Using your pattern as a guide, measure out your cover boards. (Here I am using pressed illustration board.) You will want the width to be the same as your book page pattern (this will be staggered a bit to cause an overhang) and with 1/8 of an inch additional at the top and bottom. The spine board should be approximately the thickness of your book PLUS the thickness of your cover boards. Do yourself a favor and double check your measurements! (I speak this from experience. Ahem.) Using the pattern against your measurements is a good way to eyeball indicate if you are off.
When you are sure everything is accurate cut your boards with either a bandsaw, a jigsaw, or if your board of choice permits it, an exacto knife or box cutter against a straight edge.
Your edges may look rough. Take a roll of sandpaper and slough off any gnarly bits, at the same time softening the hard edges and corners. If you rub with your sandpaper in a circular motion, moving back and forth across the edge of the board you should get a good, even edge. Otherwise, parts may sand down more than others and you will end up with a lumpy edge, which is not good.
All tidy!
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